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But the young crew behind the counter makes you forget all that-as do the pillowy rice noodles, with fresh shrimp and roasted duck. Tonii’s Fresh Rice Noodle on Bayard opened in October of 2019, though with its scuffed white floors, random stoner art, and half-empty boxes of supplies, it looks more like it’s moving out than in. Do a 10-piece order, along with a gut-busting helping of bulgogi French fries and a watermelon soju cocktail-served straight from a mini melon. Though Koreatown is technically three miles north, some of the best KFC-Korean fried chicken, that is-is on Pell Street, where Boka Korean Fried Chicken opened in 2019. Order one of the banana-leaf-encased sticky rice bundles, which sit by the dozens in trays on the counter, and a whole fish, marinated in soy sauce and scallions, if it’s available. By contrast, Mee Sum Cafe on Pell Street feels like a place that time forgot, with hulking dun-colored cash register and metal barstools crowned with burnt-orange leather. On Doyers, Nom Wah Tea Parlor has been open since 1920, making it the oldest continuously running restaurant in Chinatown-and it’s still buzzing today, with locals and visitors who pack in each weekend for dim sum staples like shrimp shumai and Shanghainese soup dumplings. on a Saturday for steaming bowls of pork wonton noodle soup. Over on East Broadway, Hwa Yuan Szechuan’s white tablecloths are great for a dressed-up family dinner or a Friday night on the town for something more low-key, Noodle Village on Mott is the perfect casual spot to roll into around 4 p.m. Slide into a booth and order the crabs Cantonese style, served in a rich brown sauce, and the salted squid with spicy green pepper. On the corner of Mott and Mosco, down a dark flight of stairs, unassuming neighborhood stalwart Hop Kee has been serving up no-frills Cantonese fare since 1968-but the lack of fuss is exactly why you go (and why Anthony Bourdain loved it). This article appeared in the September/October 2021 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. To help get you started on your own journey through the neighborhood, we've collected our favorite things to do in Chinatown below. Before the pandemic, Nancy Yao Maasbach, president of the neighborhood's Museum of Chinese in America, told Condé Nast Traveler she believed "there’s never been a more exciting time for this neighborhood in New York City." And while she might not have predicted the challenges faced by Chinatown over the last 18 months, her sentiment is perhaps even more true today. The next generation of business owners is already reshaping the bright future of the neighborhood, reviving some classics and introducing their own spins on cuisine, commerce, and culture. But Chinatown-and its residents-are resilient. Beyond the ubiquitous business closures that erased decades of history, the racist stigma associated with the virus led to attacks on the city's Asian American Pacific Islander communities. It's this juxtaposition that makes Chinatown so intriguing.īut the coronavirus pandemic has been particularly harsh on the neighborhood. But it is undoubtedly one of the most dynamic neighborhoods in all of New York City its long history is still being written as its streets evolve, with new ventures emerging between the storefronts of the old guard. More than most of New York's other neighborhoods, Chinatown is a time capsule lined with generations-old family-run businesses. There's not only the sensory overload-the aroma of roast duck, the striking visual of the neon green “hair” on hot pink rambutan in a fruit vendor's cart, and the cacophony of hawkers, passersby, and traffic-but also the uncanny warping of time.
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Emerging from the Canal Street station in Chinatown is an experience.